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| Model wears vintage Chanel. Image courtesy of Claire Inc |
I stumbled upon it and was struck by its gorgeous styling. 1980s and 1990s pieces that could so easily be frumpy or retro-tragic in the wrong light were suddenly so glamorous they belonged on the cast of Dynasty. The difference was the use of pale, gamine models with blunt-cut hair, the quirky, witty way things were thrown together and the curatorship – the eagle-eye with which pieces were chosen and presented. It’s evident Belinda Humphris, the mastermind behind the operation, at once knows and loves vintage gear.
At the recent launch of the Pills, Thrills collection, I was chuffed to get close to Belinda’s treasures. She had tapped into trends and so there were the lacy black things that could have sprung from Riccardo Tisci’s brain and loud-print pants by the likes of Versace. I was briefly enamoured of a Karl Lagerfeld duffle bag and then flirted with a Moschino bag with its peace and love clasps and hardware and its green versus red colour scheme. That sounds Christmasy, but actually called to mind the colours of a good classic Gucci bag.
Belinda, who once sold me my beloved Karl Largerfeld necklace (two pearls have gone missing; I have never stopped sulking), took my questions.
CL: How do you go about selecting a great piece of vintage? Label, colour, quality, designer cachet, historical value, current trends, X factor?
BH: We look for quality of fabrics, tailoring, and innovation of vintage design. Authenticity verification is a major part of what we do. We are meticulous about fabrics, tags and authenticity marks such as stamps, signed lining, signature features and serial numbers.
CL. Which designers currently designing today will have their pieces increase in value when they die, that is, who is making vintage collectables of the future?
BH: Oh there are so many. [Alexander] McQueen was an obvious one. Hedi Slimane, Tom Ford and Marc Jacobs already have fervent fans. I also love the outrageousness of John Galliano and Jean Paul Gaultier. True innovators
CL: What are you favourite designer vintage hunting grounds - op shops, Internet, deceased estates, somewhere else?
BH: I’ve always loved op shopping but don’t get to do it much these days. The internet is a treasure trove of goodness and appeals to my need for late night bargain hunting
CL: Describe the rarest piece you ever found and sold.
BH: A silk Chanel blouse from Karl Lagerfeld's first collection for Chanel in 1983. The incredible opal print fabric was designed by Australia's own Jenny Kee! I was so besotted I couldn’t even sell it. It really belongs in a museum
CL: Complete this sentence: I would collapse from excitement if I found a … on sale for $5.
BH: Ha. Currently anything Phillip Lim. I’m Phillip Lim obsessed!
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